How to Repair Left Right Cellular Data Antenna of iPad2 CDMA?

Replace the right cellular data antenna in your iPad 2 CDMA.

Due to long term usage, now your iPad2 device has begun to show the symptoms of Cellular antenna malfunctioning. And it would be a big waste of money if you purchase a brand new iPad2 device.

Now opting for a DIY repair to replace the troubled antenna with a new one would be a far better option as it could be both reasonable as well as economical. And this will allow you to replace any of the damaged or faulty part with the new Antenna.

So before you call Apple Customer care you can DIY repair your iPad2 device, which is quite possible but is very difficult to perform. Just ensure that both the left as well as right cellular data antennas are properly installed before finally testing it. You need to have great patience, ample spare time as well as the correct tools to perform it.

Reminder: If your device is under any warranty, then first visit the nearest authorized iPad repair centre to sort out any iPad issues.

Tools required:

  • Plastic Picks tools.
  • Heat Gun or an iOpener.
  • Phillips #0 Screwdriver.
  • Phillips #00 Screwdriver.
  • Plastic razor tools.
  • Spudger tools.

Sections   

iOpener Heating
Front Panel
LCD
Headphone Jack Assembly
Headphone Jack
Front Panel Assembly
LCD Assembly
LCD Assembly
Front Facing Camera
Logic Board
Left Cellular Data Antenna
Right Cellular Data Antenna

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Step 1:

  • Just Switch off your iPad2 device, before you start to disassemble it.

Step 2:

Front assembly:

  • Then place the heated iOpener flat or use your heat gun, on the iPad’s right edge to smooth out the adhesive in that very section for about 90 plus seconds before your attempt to pry up its front assembly panel.
  • Now carefully wedge the plastic razor tool’s tip into the small gap, just enough to widen the crack, right in between the plastic bezel and the front glass.

Reminder: Now it might need a bit of force to wedge the plastic tool’s tip right between the bezel and the glass. So workout carefully and patiently to wiggle the plastic razor tool back and forth as needed.

  • Now just hold the plastic razor tool inserted right in between the plastic bezel and the front glass and then slide a plastic pick in the small opening nearest the plastic razor tool.
  • Then detach the plastic razor tool out of the iPad and insert the plastic pick further beneath the front glass to about 0.5 inches deep.
  • While releasing the adhesive on the iPad’s right side, just reheat your iOpener or use your heat gun to warm up the iPad’s bottom edge.
  • Now while the iPad’s bottom edge is being warmed up, just start to release the adhesive alongside the iPad’s right edge.
  • Then just slide the plastic pick down alongside the iPad’s right edge to release all the adhesive coming in its way.
  • Now just before detaching the first plastic pick away from the iPad’s bottom corner, carefully wedge another pick right beneath the front glass’s right edge to prevent the adhesive from re-sticking.
  • Again use the heat gun or re-heat your iOpener to smooth up the iPad’s top edge.
  • Then slide the plastic pick just around the iPad’s bottom right corner to release the adhesive in that section.

Reminder: Just avoid sliding the plastic pick further than the iPad’s bottom right corner as the Wi-Fi antenna might get damaged in the process.

  • Don’t detach the plastic pick fully and away from beneath the front glass. Just pull that pick out a little bit till about 1/8 mm of its tip is still remaining beneath the front glass.
  • Then slide the plastic pick’s tip right along the iPad’s bottom edge to release the Wi-Fi antenna adhesive.
  • After passing the Wi-Fi antenna, which is about 3mm away from the iPad’s right edge or is quite near the home button, just re-wedge the plastic pick deep enough.
  • Then slide the plastic pick towards the right to release the adhesive attaching the Wi-Fi antenna with the front glass.
  • Just keep on releasing the iPad’s bottom adhesive and pull out the plastic pick just enough to move about the home button. Then again re-wedge it after the pick passes the home button.
  • Again keep on releasing the entire adhesive all along the iPad’s bottom edge.
  • Just hold the plastic pick inserted right beneath the front glass next to the home button.
  • Again use your heat gun or reheat your iOpener to warm up the adhesive in the iPad’s left edge section.
  • Then carefully slide the plastic pick along the iPad’s top edge to slightly pull it out in order to move about the front camera bracket.
  • Again keep on releasing the iPad’s top edge adhesive and gently slide the plastic pick just about the iPad’s top left corner.
  • Then slide the plastic pick alongside the iPad’s left edge to release the adhesive coming its way.

Reminder: Now the digitizer cable is about 2.0 mm away from the iPad’s bottom. So, just halt the sliding job when you reach about 2.30 mm away from the iPad’s bottom.

  • Use your plastic pick which is still held beneath the iPad’s bottom edge to release the iPad’s bottom left corner adhesive.

Reminder: Now the digitizer cable’s bottom is just about 1 inch from the iPad’s bottom. Just make sure that this cable is not severed.

  • Use one of your plastic picks to open up the iPad’s bottom right corner and hold it firmly with your fingers.
  • Then just firmly grab the iPad by its bottom as well as its right corners and gently remove the front glass out of your iPad.

Step 3:

LCD:

  • Now use your Phillips screwdriver to unscrew and remove all the four 2.0 mm Phillips #00 screws attaching the LCD with the back case.
  • Then just raise the LCD by its longer edge nearest the volume buttons and flip it out of the back case.
  • Gently place the LCD over the front panel.

Step 4:

Front Panel Assembly:

  • Use your plastic razor tool’s edge to gently toss the retaining flaps up on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.
  • Again use the plastic razor tool’s edge to peel off the digitizer cable from the shields on the logic board.
  • Cautiously detach the digitizer cable from the adhesive attaching it with the back case side.
  • Gently remove the digitizer ribbon cable straight from both of its sockets on the logic board.
  • Just raise the LCD by its longer edge farthest from the digitizer cable and carefully toss it toward the back case.
  • Firmly hold the LCD up and carefully move the front panel away from your device.

Reminder: Do not snag the digitizer cable on the back case or LCD.

  • Place the LCD back into the body to keep it safe.

Step 5:

LCD Assembly:

  • Now again gently raise the LCD by its longer edge nearest the volume buttons and carefully toss it out of the back case.
  • Then carefully lay the LCD face down on a soft cloth to avoid any scratches.
  • Use your plastic razor tool to raise the display data cable lock up.
  • Gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

Reminder: Just don’t pull the connector upwards while detaching it from its socket.

  • Then carefully detach the LCD assembly away from the back panel assembly.

Step 6:

Headphone & SIM Slot:

  • Now use your plastic razor tool’s edge to gently toss the retaining flap up on the headphone jack as well as the front camera cable ZIF socket.

Reminder: Make sure you are flipping the hinged retaining flap only and not the entire socket.

  • Then peel off the headphone jack as well as the front camera cable away from the back case.
  • Gently detach the headphone jack as well as the front camera ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
  • Unscrew and remove all the three 2 mm Phillips screws attaching the SIM card slot with the back panel.
  • Unscrew and remove both of the 2.9 mm Phillips screws attaching the headphone jack with the top edge of the back panel.
  • Then use your plastic razor tool’s edge to carefully detach the headphone jack away from its recess in the top of the back panel.

Reminder: Avoid removing the entire assembly just yet as some of the ribbon cables might still be connected.

  • Cautiously peel off the front camera as well as the microphone cables from the rear panel.
  • Gently peel off the tape strip wrapped over the front camera cable connector.
  • Again use your plastic razor tool to gently detach the front camera cable out of the microphone cable located just beneath it.
  • Then carefully peel off the front camera cable from the microphone cable.

Step 7:

Front Facing Camera:

  • Carefully peel off the tape piece covering the microphone, camera as well as the headphone jack ribbon cables.
  • Again gently peel off the front camera adhesive sticking it with the back panel.
  • Then gently remove the front camera cable away from the channel that cut into the back panel.
  • Carefully detach the front camera from your device.
  • Use your plastic razor tool to detach the microphone cable connector.
  • Then finally pull the headphone jack/SIM slot away from your device.

Step 8:

Logic Board removal:

  • If visible, then peel off the tape piece covering the dock connector cable’s end.
  • Use your plastic razor tool’s end to gently detach the dock cable’s connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Then gently peel off the dock connector ribbon cable away from the back panel.
  • Now carefully detach the speaker cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use your plastic razor tool to toss the retainer up attaching the upper component board cable connector with its socket on the logic board.
  • Carefully remove the connector from its socket on the logic board.

Reminder: Avoid raising the cable upwards while you disconnect it.

  • Unscrew and remove both of the 2.1 mm Phillips screws attaching the logic board bracket with the back case located near the digitizer cable socket.
  • Gently detach the logic board bracket away from the back case.
  • Unscrew and remove all the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws attaching the logic and communications boards with the back panel.
  • Use your plastic razor tool to carefully detach the logic board away from the back case.

Reminder: The logic board is attached with the rear case. So gently work out to peel off the glue without getting the board damaged.

  • Raise the logic board away from the back case and gently flip it towards the battery side.

Reminder: Don’t attempt to detach the logic board completely as there might be at least three antenna cables still attached with it.

Step 9:

Left Cellular Data Antenna:

  • Now use your plastic razor tool to separate the cellular data antenna cable out of its socket on the communications board.
  • Unscrew and remove the single 2.1 mm Phillips screw attaching the cellular data antenna cable with the back case.
  • Use the spudger tool’s tip to remove both of the tape pieces.
  • Use your plastic opening tool’s tip to carefully open up the cellular data antenna out of the rear case.
  • Raise the cellular data antenna from its recess.
  • Carefully grab the left cellular data antenna cable by the channel cut in the back panel. Then gently pull it away from your device.

Step 10:

Right Cellular Data Antenna:

  • Use your plastic razor tool to disengage the right antenna cable out of its socket on the communications board.
  • Unscrew and remove the single 2.1 mm Phillips screw attaching the right cellular antenna with the back case.
  • Use the spudger tool to gently peel off all the three pieces of tape without tearing the right cellular antenna.
  • With your plastic razor tool carefully detach the antenna away from the back case.
  • Finally raise and then gently pull the right cellular data antenna away from your device.

Step 11:

  • Replace both the existing left as well as right cellular data antennas with the new ones.
  • Now to reassemble your iPad2 device, carefully follow the above mentioned steps in exact reverse order.

 

Now you’ve successfully replaced both the left & right antennas of your iPad2 CDMA.

 

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