How to Replace Loud Speaker Assembly of iPad2 CDMA?

How to repair Loud Speaker Assembly of your iPad2 CDMA?

So the loud speaker assembly of your iPad2 device recently began to malfunction! Now the symptoms of a faulty loud speaker assembly include distorted sound while you play music and while you use speakerphone or you don’t hear any sound at all. And sometimes a flawed loud speaker won’t let other people hear you when you activate your speakerphone.

And after paying a visit to a repair shop you decide not to spend a fortune in getting it repaired from there and to opt for its DIY repair instead. The DIY repair of your iPad2 CDMA is very much possible though it is quite difficult to perform it. Be ready with the correct repair tools, great patience as well as ample spare time.

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Tools required:

  • Plastic Picks.
  • Heat gun or an iOpener.
  • Plastic razor tools.
  • Spudger tools.
  • Phillips #0 Screwdriver.
  • Phillips #00 Screwdriver.

 

Step 1:

  • Power off your iPad2 device, before you begin its disassembling process.

Step 2:

Front assembly:

  • Then place the heated iOpener flat or use your heat gun, on the iPad’s right edge to smooth out the adhesive in that very section for about 90 plus seconds before your attempt to pry up its front assembly panel.
  • Now carefully wedge the plastic razor tool’s tip into the small gap, just enough to widen the crack, right in between the plastic bezel and the front glass.

Reminder: Now it might need a bit of force to wedge the plastic tool’s tip right between the bezel and the glass. So workout carefully and patiently to wiggle the plastic razor tool back and forth as needed.

  • Now just hold the plastic razor tool inserted right in between the plastic bezel and the front glass and then slide a plastic pick in the small opening nearest the plastic razor tool.
  • Then detach the plastic razor tool out of the iPad and insert the plastic pick further beneath the front glass to about 0.5 inches deep.
  • While releasing the adhesive on the iPad’s right side, just reheat your iOpener or use your heat gun to warm up the iPad’s bottom edge.
  • Now while the iPad’s bottom edge is being warmed up, just start to release the adhesive alongside the iPad’s right edge.
  • Then just slide the plastic pick down alongside the iPad’s right edge to release all the adhesive coming in its way.
  • Now just before detaching the first plastic pick away from the iPad’s bottom corner, carefully wedge another pick right beneath the front glass’s right edge to prevent the adhesive from re-sticking.
  • Again use the heat gun or re-heat your iOpener to smooth up the iPad’s top edge.
  • Then slide the plastic pick just around the iPad’s bottom right corner to release the adhesive in that section.

Reminder: Just avoid sliding the plastic pick further than the iPad’s bottom right corner as the Wi-Fi antenna might get damaged in the process.

  • Don’t detach the plastic pick fully and away from beneath the front glass. Just pull that pick out a little bit till about 1/8 mm of its tip is still remaining beneath the front glass.
  • Then slide the plastic pick’s tip right along the iPad’s bottom edge to release the Wi-Fi antenna adhesive.
  • After passing the Wi-Fi antenna, which is about 3mm away from the iPad’s right edge or is quite near the home button, just re-wedge the plastic pick deep enough.
  • Then slide the plastic pick towards the right to release the adhesive attaching the Wi-Fi antenna with the front glass.
  • Just keep on releasing the iPad’s bottom adhesive and pull out the plastic pick just enough to move about the home button. Then again re-wedge it after the pick passes the home button.
  • Again keep on releasing the entire adhesive all along the iPad’s bottom edge.
  • Just hold the plastic pick inserted right beneath the front glass next to the home button.
  • Again use your heat gun or reheat your iOpener to warm up the adhesive in the iPad’s left edge section.
  • Then carefully slide the plastic pick along the iPad’s top edge to slightly pull it out in order to move about the front camera bracket.
  • Again keep on releasing the iPad’s top edge adhesive and gently slide the plastic pick just about the iPad’s top left corner.
  • Then slide the plastic pick alongside the iPad’s left edge to release the adhesive coming its way.

Reminder: Now the digitizer cable is about 2.0 mm away from the iPad’s bottom. So, just halt the sliding job when you reach about 2.30 mm away from the iPad’s bottom.

  • Use your plastic pick which is still held beneath the iPad’s bottom edge to release the iPad’s bottom left corner adhesive.

Reminder: Now the digitizer cable’s bottom is just about 1 inch from the iPad’s bottom. Just make sure that this cable is not severed.

  • Use one of your plastic picks to open up the iPad’s bottom right corner and hold it firmly with your fingers.
  • Then just firmly grab the iPad by its bottom as well as its right corners and gently remove the front glass out of your iPad.

Step 3:

LCD:

  • Now use your Phillips screwdriver to unscrew and remove all the four 2.0 mm Phillips #00 screws attaching the LCD with the back case.
  • Then just raise the LCD by its longer edge nearest the volume buttons and flip it out of the back case.
  • Gently place the LCD over the front panel.

Step 4:

Front Panel Assembly:

  • Use your plastic razor tool’s edge to gently toss the retaining flaps up on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.
  • Again use the plastic razor tool’s edge to peel off the digitizer cable from the shields on the logic board.
  • Cautiously detach the digitizer cable from the adhesive attaching it with the back case side.
  • Gently remove the digitizer ribbon cable straight from both of its sockets on the logic board.
  • Just raise the LCD by its longer edge farthest from the digitizer cable and carefully toss it toward the back case.
  • Firmly hold the LCD up and carefully move the front panel away from your device.

Reminder: Do not snag the digitizer cable on the back case or LCD.

  • Place the LCD back into the body to keep it safe.

Step 5:

LCD Assembly:

  • Now again gently raise the LCD by its longer edge nearest the volume buttons and carefully toss it out of the back case.
  • Place the LCD face down on a soft cloth to avoid any scratches.

Step 6:

Logic Board assembly:

  • Cautiously place the LCD just near the back panel.
  • Use your plastic razor tool to raise the display data cable lock upwards.
  • Then gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

Reminder: Avoid pulling the connector upwards as you might detach it from its socket.

  • Carefully detach the LCD assembly away from the back panel assembly.
  • If visible, use your plastic razor tool to peel off the tape piece covering the dock connector cable’s end.
  • Use the plastic razor tool’s edge to gently detach the dock cable’s connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Just peel off the dock connector ribbon cable away from the back panel.
  • Then carefully detach the speaker cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use your plastic razor tool’s edge to gently toss the retaining flap up on the headphone jack as well as the front camera cable ZIF socket.

Reminder: Make sure you’re only flipping the hinged retaining flap upwards and not the entire socket.

  • Carefully peel off the headphone jack as well as the front camera cable from the back case.
  • Gently pull out the headphone jack as well as the front camera ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the plastic razor tool’s edge to gently toss the retainer upwards which attaches the upper component board cable connector with its socket on the logic board.
  • Carefully remove the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Reminder: Don’t raise the cable upwards while disconnecting it.

  • Unscrew and remove all the three 2 mm Phillips screws attaching the SIM card slot with the back panel.
  • Unscrew and remove both of the 2.9 mm Phillips screws attaching the headphone jack with the back panel’s top edge.
  • Use your plastic razor tool to carefully remove the headphone jack from its recess in the back panel’s top.
  • Gently peel off the headphone jack/SIM slot assembly from the communications board’s top edge.
  • Unscrew and remove both of the 2.1 mm Phillips screws attaching the logic board bracket with the back case, located just next to the digitizer cable socket.
  • Gently detach the logic board bracket away from the back case.
  • Unscrew and remove all the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws attaching the logic and communications boards with the back panel.
  • Again use the plastic razor tool’s edge to gently remove the logic board from the adhesive sticking it with the back case.
  • Carefully raise the logic board away from the back case and slightly flip it towards the battery side.

Reminder: Don’t attempt to fully remove the board just yet as there might be at least three antenna cables still attached with it.

  • Use the plastic razor tool to carefully detach both of the antenna connectors away from their respective sockets located on the communications board.
  • Carefully detach the Wi-Fi antenna connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Finally detach the logic board from your iPad2 device.

Step 7:

iPad2 Battery removal:

  • Use your heat gun or reheat your iOpener to lay it on your iPad’s back (approx. right of center) for about 90 plus seconds to warm up the battery adhesive.
  • Then slide and lay your iOpener or use the heat gun on the center of the iPad’s back for another 90 plus seconds and warm the adhesive in that section.
  • Again slide and lay the reheated iOpener or use your heat gun on the left edge of the iPad’s back for another 90 plus seconds to warm the adhesive in that section.
  • Now beginning with the battery cell nearest the dock connector, slide your plastic razor tool from beneath the battery’s edge which is adjoining the logic board gap to create enough room to wedge the spudger tool’s flat end.
  • Then slide the spudger tool’s flat end along with both the longer sides of each battery cell to fully detach them from the adhesive sticking these with the back case.
  • Now prior to opening up the middle battery cell, just use the plastic razor tool’s edge to raise the battery connector board from the back panel.

Reminder: Don’t bend the battery connector board excessively.

  • Then use the spudger tool to remove the adhesive along with the middle battery cell’s longer sides.
  • Just repeat the entire process for the final battery cell.
  • Gently raise the battery away from the back panel and detach it from your iPad2 device.

Step 8:

Speaker Assembly:

  • Cautiously peel off the dock connector as well as the speaker cables till the Wi-Fi antenna cable is revealed.
  • Then peel off the Wi-Fi antenna cable away from the back panel.
  • Unscrew and remove all the three Phillips screws (two 2.0 mm screws and two 1.7 mm screws).
  • Peel off the Wi-Fi antenna from the speaker enclosure and detach it from your device.
  • Again peel off the dock connector cable away from the speaker cable.

Reminder: Make sure that all the small EMI foam rings are stuck with the dock connector cable.

  • Use the plastic razor tool’s edge to peel off the large tape strip’s edge sticking the speaker assembly with the back panel.
  • Then with your fingers just peel off the strip from the speaker assembly.
  • Unscrew and remove both of the Phillips screws (single 3 mm screw and a single 2.1 mm screw).
  • Use the plastic razor tool’s edge to push the speaker assembly away from under the rear panel’s right side.
  • Carefully detach the speaker assembly away from your iPad2 device.

Step 9:

  • Replace the existing loud speaker assembly with the new speaker assembly.
  • To reassemble your device, cautiously follow all the above steps in exact reverse order.

Now you’ve successfully replaced the loud speaker assembly of your iPad2 device.

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